Mongolia
9 - 16 October
9 - 16 October
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10 OCT
After flying from Singapore to Beijing and spending the night at a hotel near the airport, we caught an early flight to Ulaanbaatar. Our driver and guide were there to meet us, and we set off on our new adventure, an 80 mile or so drive to Hustai National Park. Our guide is a very pleasant young woman named Mugu. She is a college student on break who is majoring in social work. Her English is very good.
Just how many shades of brown are there? Driving through the high Mongolian plateau to our first destination, we saw golden browns, beiges, buffs, tans, taupes, warm hues and cool ones, all blending and yet contrasting in the landscape. There were enough new earth tones to create a color palate of paint chips at the hardware store. There were many domestic animals—horses, cows, sheep, goats and horses. Mongolia is famous for its horses and horsemen.
We arrived at the park’s “ger” tourist camp in time for lunch. A ger is a round Mongolian felt tent in which the nomadic people live, and they also comprise the tourist camps. There are few hotels outside of the capital city. We were introduced to our ger, and the luggage was brought inside. It’s a comfortable tent with real furniture and a king size bed, just no bathroom. We’ll walk to the bathroom and showers. From inside the ger, we can hear the sheep, cows and horses roaming just outside. The land is unfenced for the most part, and the animals roam free.
A Success Story, We Think
In the late afternoon, we went for a game drive to try to see the famous wild horses of Hustai. The horses actually went extinct in the wild in the 1960’s. There were a few in zoos, however. Those horses, through a program, were bred and reintroduced back into their native habitat. They now number about 250 and are doing well here. The familiar name of the horse is the ‘takhi’. It is also known as the Przewalski horse. Their color is dun with dark markings on the legs, and they have a very short mane. The takhi is closely related to the zebra.
Wild Tahki "Przewalski" HorseWe set out in the vehicle and about 20 or 30 minutes later we spotted a small herd of 6 coming down the mountain to a water hole near us. We sat on the ground and watched and photographed the horses as they came closer to us. After awhile, a larger herd of about 8 came down to the water to drink. During the time we were watching the horses, a large herd of about 12 roe deer were on the crest of the mountain watching us. We hoped that they would follow the horses, and we could get a good look at them, but they were shy and veered off to another water spot farther from us.
NOTE:
Renee had previously filled out a questionnaire indicating that she was a vegetarian, because she was not comfortable with eating mystery meat that she knew would be served here in Mongolia. Apparently, the form was lost. We were all served the same 4 course lunch, the main course having meat (actually beef). But, during the conversation about meat, Mugu indicated that they eat all meats—sheep, goat, beef, horse, yak and ground hog. Of course, that made us feel better!
11 OCT
Today, we drove to another location called Karakorum. This area was the capital city of the Mongol Empire founded by Genghis Khan in the 1200’s. Not much is left now of the ruins, but there is a beautiful new museum that we visited that has artifacts and details the history from the Bronze Period onward.
Today, we drove to another location called Karakorum. This area was the capital city of the Mongol Empire founded by Genghis Khan in the 1200’s. Not much is left now of the ruins, but there is a beautiful new museum that we visited that has artifacts and details the history from the Bronze Period onward.
After touring the museum, we visited a nearby monastery which was founded in 1586, making it the oldest one in the country. While there, one of the monks honored us by pouring a bowl of mare’s milk in a bowl and passing it around for us to share. Dave said it tasted like yoghurt and was thick; Renee wouldn’t actually know.
At the conclusion of the day’s touring, we went to our hotel. Most of the tourist ger camps, unknown to us at the time of booking, are closed for the season. So, we checked in at a local hotel. It was brand new, rather basic and spartan, but clean and neat. They weren’t going to turn on the central heating until the end of the month, so it was a bit chilly. The bathroom had small water heaters attached to the sink and the shower. The only problem was that no electrical outlet had been installed for the shower heater, so there was no hot shower that night.
12 OCT
Today, we drove to an area that featured sand dunes similar to the Gobi desert. The purpose of coming here was to ride a 2 humped (Bactrian) camel. As we were driving, it was raining a little, sleeting a little and snowing a little. We did ride the camels, but cut it short because the wimpy Americans didn’t want to be out in the bad weather.
Today, we drove to an area that featured sand dunes similar to the Gobi desert. The purpose of coming here was to ride a 2 humped (Bactrian) camel. As we were driving, it was raining a little, sleeting a little and snowing a little. We did ride the camels, but cut it short because the wimpy Americans didn’t want to be out in the bad weather.
After the ride, we visited the camel owner’s ger. He and his wife are true Mongolian nomads. They pack up their ger and move with the seasons. Right now, they are in their autumn camp. After the first major snow, they will pack up and move near a mountain, where they will receive the benefit of protection from the strong, cold winds that blow from Siberia. Renee thought she was off the hook when we were only offered some candy. But more treats were soon to follow. Next, was a bowl of camel’s milk that was passed around. Then came the real delicacy—a boiled sheep’s head, complete with the teeth still in it. The guide and driver were delighted and ate from the head. Dave tried it, too, having had to endure similar experiences in his military career. Renee’s excuse was a bad stomach (actually true). After the head, they had some soup that was boiling in a pot.
Interestingly, the ger has no windows, but sections of the top are left open for light and for the cooking fumes to escape. In the center of the ger under the opening is a metal stove that provides heat and cooking space. The fire is fed with dried dung from the animals. There is a raised platform bed on each side with room under for shoes and boots. There is a solar panel (yes, solar panel) outside that transfers energy to a battery that runs a light bulb and a TV. TV, you ask? Yes, there is a satellite dish outside, too. There are a couple of decorated chests that I think hold personal items. On top of one was a mirror and make up. The top of the other was home to a small Buddhist shrine. Water comes from a stream. As we were leaving, we noticed a goat tied up outside—tomorrow’s lunch!
Interestingly, the ger has no windows, but sections of the top are left open for light and for the cooking fumes to escape. In the center of the ger under the opening is a metal stove that provides heat and cooking space. The fire is fed with dried dung from the animals. There is a raised platform bed on each side with room under for shoes and boots. There is a solar panel (yes, solar panel) outside that transfers energy to a battery that runs a light bulb and a TV. TV, you ask? Yes, there is a satellite dish outside, too. There are a couple of decorated chests that I think hold personal items. On top of one was a mirror and make up. The top of the other was home to a small Buddhist shrine. Water comes from a stream. As we were leaving, we noticed a goat tied up outside—tomorrow’s lunch!
We drove to our local hotel for the night. After seeing the room we were to be given and being informed that again there would be no heat and no hot shower, Renee brought up the idea of driving back to the capital to spend the night. It was just lunch time, and we would have the whole afternoon to make the drive where we could spend the night in a decent hotel. Both the guide and driver were amenable to the suggestion, so we did just that. We were there by 6:00PM, but the rush hour traffic meant that it took another hour and 15 minutes to reach the hotel.
13 OCT
After spending the night in a hotel that had hot showers, we toured the city to see the major sights (not too many). The architecture is a mixture of Soviet style buildings with some contemporary new glass office buildings. There’s a lot here that is reminiscent of a trip to Russia. Actually, for over 50 years Russia was an important part of Mongolia’s political life—they were a Communist country. Not just the architecture, but the buildings are painted the same colors that the Soviets used. Inside, there are the same decorative features. And, many of the buildings have the word palace attached to them, such as sports palace (an arena), wedding palace, etc. The state theatre looks similar to a copy of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. In 1991, when Eastern Europe rid itself of the Soviets, so did Mongolia. They are now a democracy.
After spending the night in a hotel that had hot showers, we toured the city to see the major sights (not too many). The architecture is a mixture of Soviet style buildings with some contemporary new glass office buildings. There’s a lot here that is reminiscent of a trip to Russia. Actually, for over 50 years Russia was an important part of Mongolia’s political life—they were a Communist country. Not just the architecture, but the buildings are painted the same colors that the Soviets used. Inside, there are the same decorative features. And, many of the buildings have the word palace attached to them, such as sports palace (an arena), wedding palace, etc. The state theatre looks similar to a copy of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. In 1991, when Eastern Europe rid itself of the Soviets, so did Mongolia. They are now a democracy.
We toured Parliament Square where there was heavy security, and the police were motioning to us to stay back a certain distance. We saw several large SUV’s parked in front of the building and watched as reporters, cameramen, and politicos in dark suits emerged. Among and between them was Angela Merkel, Germany’s Chancellor. Renee managed to snap some distant photos of her with her entourage.
After lunch, we drove to Terelj National Park, a popular destination for Mongolians and tourists. We had the tour company book one of the only two 5 star hotels in the country for us there, and we had read that it was designated as one of the finest small hotels in the world. After checking in, we were simply stunned to see our room—about the size of a closet with a double bed pushed up against the wall, so we went back to reception to get the room changed. That was not a problem, but a decent sized room required an upgrade for which we had to pay. That night we ordered dinner, and we would give it minus 5 stars, really pitiful! The attitude seems to be one of just not caring about service. May be a holdover from the Soviet era?
14 OCT
Today, we toured a bit of the park and saw the ‘stone turtle’ natural sculpture that tourists come here to see. We also visited a huge (over 100 feet tall) stainless steel statue of Chinngiss (Genghis, to us) Khan on horseback, finished last year. The building upon which it sits houses a new museum. This statue is massive, gleaming in the sun with a bright blue sky behind it. It is a source of great pride to Mongolians, who view Khan as their hero.
14 OCT
Today, we toured a bit of the park and saw the ‘stone turtle’ natural sculpture that tourists come here to see. We also visited a huge (over 100 feet tall) stainless steel statue of Chinngiss (Genghis, to us) Khan on horseback, finished last year. The building upon which it sits houses a new museum. This statue is massive, gleaming in the sun with a bright blue sky behind it. It is a source of great pride to Mongolians, who view Khan as their hero.
Upon returning to the hotel, we made the obligatory horse ride; thankfully, it was uneventful. Our dinner was a bit more interesting, however. We had our meal in the hotel where the guide and driver were staying (next door). When we walked into the dining room, there was a group of about 50 people from an office having a party. They were eating, drinking, laughing, making speeches on a microphone and singing songs together. It was a raucous party, but we actually had no idea what was going on. As this noisy group was finishing up (at the tables, but probably not for the night), in walked a silent sandal clad procession of priests, nuns and laymen from an Orthodox Christian church who quietly took their seats at a table laid out for them for dinner. The contrast between the 2 groups couldn’t have been more marked. This was definitely an event where people watching was an event. In the midst of all of this, a young boy entered stage left wearing a spiderman costume and parading around as if either looking for a parent or pretending to be playing spiderman. It seemed by now that we were viewing an existential play of some sort but missing the playwright’s message. Tomorrow, we leave here, spend the night in the capital, and catch a flight the next morning back to Beijing, to begin our tour there.
To summarize, Mongolia is vastly different from any other place we have visited. The terrain is similar to the American west, and the nomadic people live a life that we imagine to be very similar to the nomadic native Americans living in the 1700’s and 1800’s. As in our west, the horse is such an important animal.
More and more people, however, are moving to the capital, Ulaanbaatar, to be educated and to look for an easier lifestyle. The city is a busy hub of activity with many people and cars. Unemployment is low here, and we were told it’s because no outsiders are employed to work here, only Mongolians, who will do all of the jobs. Mongolia is a young democracy, and in spite of growing pains, seems to be doing okay.
Postscript
Dave’s blackberry stopped working after being in a rainstorm in Borneo. Mugu happened to mention that her fiancé had recently earned a master’s degree in IT, in Australia on scholarship. When Dave told her about the blackberry, she said she could give it him to see what he could do to fix it. Within 2 days he had opened the unit, found water had leaked inside, thoroughly cleaned it and put it back together. It now works! He didn’t want anything for his service, but we had to reward his kind efforts, anyway.
Dave’s blackberry stopped working after being in a rainstorm in Borneo. Mugu happened to mention that her fiancé had recently earned a master’s degree in IT, in Australia on scholarship. When Dave told her about the blackberry, she said she could give it him to see what he could do to fix it. Within 2 days he had opened the unit, found water had leaked inside, thoroughly cleaned it and put it back together. It now works! He didn’t want anything for his service, but we had to reward his kind efforts, anyway.
Pictures: Due to the additional number of pictures we wanted to post for Mongolia, please view them at our photo website below.
