17 November - 7 December
This was a stopover place for the trip to the Fiord Country. Queenstown is a beautiful town set on a lake overlooking the mountains. As luck would have it, the clouds and rain kept us from enjoying the scenery.
We came to the southwest coast of New Zealand to see the stunning scenery, namely the fiords in Fiordland National Park. These fiords comprise some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. Interestingly, the fiords where we booked scenic cruises are named Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound. When the fiords were discovered, the only English word known to describe them was ‘sound’. They aren’t sounds, because sounds are carved out by rivers and then fill with seawater. Fiords, on the other hand, are carved by glaciers and then fill with seawater. Later, when the Norwegian word ‘Fiord’ was introduced to English, the error of the names was discovered, but the names had already stuck, so they weren’t changed. The national park, however, came later, and was named correctly.
We set out from Te Anau in the morning in order to reach our destination, Franz Joseph Glacier, by late afternoon. It was a sunny, beautiful day. As we started the journey, backtracking from a few days before, we noticed how different everything appeared compared to the day we drove the other way. The difference was due to the weather. The first drive was in the rain, mist and low clouds. This day’s drive in the sun was glorious. Before us the hills were carpeted in lush, green velvet. Sheep and cows were everywhere. New Zealand has many more sheep than people; the ratio is about 12 to 1. All of the animals look so clean and healthy in their pristine meadows and fields.
But the real difference in the drive was in the brilliant colors of the stunning alpine lakes that we followed for most of the day. The blues of the lakes combined with bright yellow wild flowers and intense greens of the grasses and trees. Take all of that and put it against a backdrop of multihued bluish mountains, some of which are still snow capped. Wow! What a gorgeous day we had! It’s no wonder that before you fly to New Zealand, you must present your airline ticket to leave the country. There would be a temptation to stay here otherwise.
Lake Wakatipu, near Queenstown
Nov. 25-27 Fox and Franx Josef
We came here to see and hike to 2 glaciers: Fox and Franz Josef. The unique thing about these glaciers is their geographical location. They are near the mid coast of western New Zealand. This area receives meters of rain each year, thus, the vegetation takes the form of a temperate rain forest. As you emerge from the rain forest, there is a virtual gray wasteland of rocks and stones which goes right up to the glaciers. Also because of the abundant rainfall, the adjacent mountains receive the precipitation in the form of snow at the higher elevations, lots and lots of snow. Hence, the glaciers were born and exist still. The terminal ends of the glaciers are found at only about 800 feet above sea level, making them easily accessible to the public. We took a short hike to each glacier. One can appreciate the sheer size and mass of the glaciers as one approaches closer. The ends of the glaciers visible on our walks were primarily white and black—white ice, black debris and a very little blue color showing through some of the fractures. Together with the gray of the rocks, it could easily have been a scene of black, white and gray without any other colors.
As we walked the boardwalk to the birds’ nesting area, the rainforest flora unfolded before us. There were white pine trees that were 900-1,000 years old, looking all gnarly and covered in epiphytes. Small native green hooded orchids were blooming along the sides of the boardwalk. And tree ferns, which reminded one of the dinosaur era recreations, grew in profusion around us.
Then, we reached the bird hide. As the wooden sides of the hide were opened for us, a dazzling array of brilliant white herons in their wispy, feathery breeding plumage awaited us. As one looked more closely, the more one saw. The herons had nests with chicks of varying ages in them. Some were quite tiny; others looked like they were ready to fly soon. So, we kept looking and the next thing we saw were the royal spoonbills, which also nest here. They, too, had beautiful breeding plumage, not wispy and feathery like the herons, but perched on the tops of their heads. They were bright white with black spoonbills. Their nests were built in the trees above those of the herons. Also present and nesting were some little cormorants, called “shags”. It was a very busy place with lots to see, observe and photograph. It was well worth the trip out there.
While waiting for our order, Renee went inside to peruse the wine selections. A wine employee working behind the counter called her over to a tasting. Not wanting to leave Dave out, she called to him to come and join in. We tasted some wines, then participated in a research and development project of tasting some blends that are being considered for bottling. The food was good; the wine was even better! A great afternoon was had by all. It looks like we’ll be enjoying the north island!
Nov. 29 Coromandel Peninsula
We left Auckland and headed south. There was plenty of time to get to our next destination, and it was a nice day, so we detoured for a drive around the scenic Coromandel peninsula. It was a lovely drive with lots of coastal scenery, huge, old trees, gently rolling hills and mountains--everything to make a picture perfect day. Around lunchtime, we drove by an area that had oodles of mussels and lots of oysters. Naturally, we stopped at a little roadside stand and got oysters on the half shell and mussel chowder for lunch. It was all fresh and delicious!
Nov. 30 White Island Volcano
We spent the night in Whakatane in preparation for a morning cruise out to New Zealand’s most active volcano, White Island. It was touch and go until the last minute as to whether the boat could actually safely go and land at the island because of strong southeasterly winds. As it turned out, all went well; the winds died down and we had a beautiful day. The boat we rode on was a luxuriously outfitted 80 ft. + cruiser. Shortly before landing, we were issued hard hats and gas masks. The masks were to be used if we felt that the fumes from the volcano were causing us respiratory distress.
The boat anchored offshore, and we were all transported to the island via rubber dinghy. We then spent about 2 hours on a guided tour of the volcano and its crater. We were actually in the crater, because it had collapsed during one of the eruptions. This day was a reminder that we don’t live on a dead rock of a planet. The planet we live on and think about on a daily basis is just a thin crust above a seething, boiling, incredibly hot mantle and liquid core. As we walked, we witnessed the power of nature in a spectacular show of steam rising from fumeroles and from the center of the crater itself. The smell was of acidic sulfur. Colors ranged from yellow to light green pools in the center of the crater (the green was sulphur mixed with arsenic). There were gray and brownish bubbling mudpots, too. Reds and pinks were mixed in on the walls of the crater, owing to the different elements and minerals in the rocks. This scene was set against a backdrop of blue sky and bluer sea. It was really an incredible sight, and we felt as if we were on another planet than earth.
Dec. 1-3 Rotorua
This area of New Zealand is known for its volcanic and geothermal activity and sights. We visited an area called Wai-o-tapu thermal area, the largest area of surface thermal activity of all the areas in this volcanic zone. We hiked through three areas in this park. There were many colorful and interesting sights to see. Among them were collapsed craters, some containing hot water springs and sulphur deposits. Most of these were formed when acidic steam rising from underground dissolved the ground above, causing a cave-in. Other areas contained pools of water colored by various minerals, making them many different hues.
Artist's Palette
One fact we found interesting was that some birds have adapted to this harsh environment. We saw pied stilts walking in the acidic waters. They have made a home here and feed on the insects that live in the area. Other birds such as starlings and swallows make their nests in holes of the walls of one of the craters. The heat coming from the crater below helps to incubate their eggs. Also flourishing in this park is the tea tree. Many herbal preparations are made from the tea tree, including skin remedies such as shampoos and astringents. They were growing everywhere and blooming at this time of year with white flowers. They have adapted to growing out of rock and areas where there is very little soil.
It was a new day, and there was yet another volcanic area to discover. The Waimangu Volcanic Valley was formed when the Tarawera volcano erupted in 1886, making this valley the world’s youngest geothermal area. We hiked for 2 hours through the trails to see all of the craters, hot springs, lakes, forests and other sights of Waimangu.
The first sight we beheld was a red colored lake, actually the southernmost crater. The red color was caused by a particular kind of (micro) fern growing in the water. We continued on to see other wondrous steaming, boiling pools, lakes and collapsed craters. When we looked out at the fumeroles and steaming lakes fringed with large fern trees, our first thought was that this must have looked like the world that the dinosaurs inhabited. The second thought was that these sights could be on another planet altogether, as they were so alien. There were many hot springs, and as they bubbled and boiled, the minerals in the water created bright colors that mixed with algae to create an artists’ palette of hues and shades. We also viewed ‘terraces’, which are platforms made from springs depositing minerals and silica. The silica builds up over time to create terraces and mixes with algae and other minerals to make a colorful sight.
Waimangu Marble Terrace
At the end of the walk was Lake Rotomahana. We cruised the lake in a boat and viewed more fumeroles, hot springs and geysers. The lake itself was increased in area dramatically by the eruption of 1886. Tons and tons of rock and magma were ejected out of this area, which then gradually filled with water to create the lake that exists today. Near the steaming fumeroles and hot springs, black swan families swam serenely. We also viewed scaups (ducks) in rather large numbers. The lake is stocked with trout, too. Although the weather called for rain on this day, it was partly cloudy, allowing us to have a good walk and tour with no weather related issues.
Dec. 4 Otorohanga and Waitomo
We left Rotorua in the rain and decided to go to the Otorohanga Kiwi House/Bird Park and the Waitomo Glowworm caves before venturing on to Auckland. We wanted to see the kiwis, and the best (and mostly only) way to do that is to visit them in one of the sanctuaries. It is practically impossible to see a kiwi in the wild. First, they are nocturnal, so they don’t appear much during the day when humans are likely to be out in the forest. Secondly, they are ground birds who blend in with their surroundings really well. So, off to the kiwi house we went. We were lucky enough to catch the feeding of the kiwis by the staff. The birds were active, running around and a lot of fun to watch. They are large birds with a very long, skinny beak for poking into the soil and leaf debris for insects. They do have wings, but they are extremely small, about an inch or 2 long. So we observed them and their comical behavior, but we were under instructions not to photograph them.
After the kiwi feeding, we headed outside in the rain to see the rest of the bird collection. There were several species of native New Zealand birds, ducks and other waterfowl. There were also some introduced species. We’re usually very keen to photograph birds, but the rain literally put a damper on this otherwise enjoyable activity.
After the bird park, we drove a short distance to Waitomo Glowworm Caves for a tour through the cave. New Zealand has its own species of glowworm. During the larval stage of development, the worm attaches itself to the cave wall and using saliva, puts down strands similar to spider webbing or silk worm silk, in vertical lines that glow in the dark. Other insects flying into the cave are attracted to the light and fly into it. At this point, they are trapped; the glowworm pulls up the strand and the insect is eaten by the worm. This process is repeated again and again for about 8 or 9 months until the worm enters the pupae stage of life. So, we entered the cave, descended deeper and deeper into the cave until we ultimately reached a river flowing into the cave and boarded an aluminum boat. As we sailed along this underground river in the complete dark, the ceiling of the cave was glowing as if the brightest of the shiniest stars were out and just above our heads. It was a totally awesome experience to see this unusual sight. Again, no photos were allowed, but it would have been difficult, if not impossible, to photograph in the dark in a moving boat.
Dec. 5-6 Auckland
We started our morning in Auckland pondering the weather, wondering if was going to be another day of rain, or maybe overcast, or even clear. You never know about these things here. Weather reports generally include all of the possibilities, so you can’t go by that. We left the hotel and walked to the harbor to check out a cruise that we wanted to take. As it turned out, the boat was leaving about 2 minutes after we made the inquiry, so we quickly booked, headed down the gangway and hoped for clear skies. We boarded an 80 foot sailing vessel that had been used in the America’s Cup Race by the New Zealanders. But, this wasn’t just any cruise. It was a hands-on, crank up the sails and steer the boat cruise. We motored out into the harbor, cut off the engine, hoisted the sails, and away we went. It was fun; the weather held out, and everyone enjoyed the morning’s outing. We made an appropriate start to our visit to the “City of Sails”.
America's Cup Sailing Yacht
Well, the epic journey is really winding down now. This is our last day in Auckland before flying to our last destination, the Cook Islands. We spent part of the day at the Antarctic Encounter, a combination of exhibits—re-creation of a hut lived in by early Antarctic explorers, 2 types of penguins (king and gentoo), and an aquarium. We enjoyed this venue for its educational and entertainment aspects.
New Zealand has been a thoroughly enjoyable place to visit. Its people are warm, friendly and helpful. The country itself is one of the most beautiful places on earth. The scenery is spectacular. The farmlands and animals, which comprise most of the countryside, are clean and healthy looking. The hospitality industry is just that, hospitable. Towns and cities are clean and safe. Prices in stores are about equivalent to what we would pay in the U. S., so it is a more affordable country than its neighbor, Australia. Politics seem to be more middle of the road, here, lacking extremists on both sides, though there is probably a little element of that. The climate is a mild one so that the use of heating and air conditioning is minimal. We leave thinking that this country is a great place to live, work and have a family. And the “All Blacks” rugby team of New Zealand recently won the world championship!
