Thursday, February 8, 2018

Chapter 1
2018 Winter Escape


After winterizing the house, we departed snow packed -9°F Maine and flew to Washington State to spend a week with our grandchildren, Stone and Clare, and their parents, of course.  They were such fun to be with, but we felt guilty leaving them.  At ages 4 and 2, it’s difficult for them to understand our departure.

We boarded an EVA 777 aircraft (Taiwanese Airline) for a midnight departure on the first leg to Taipei, where we changed planes to Thai Air and on to our first destination, Bangkok.  We had never flown on EVA.  It was the cleanest, nicest aircraft we had probably ever flown.  The staff was very pleasant and extremely helpful.  Since we were in first class with fully reclining seats, we enjoyed a restful night’s sleep.

THAILAND

Bangkok—City of Sensory Overload

It had been about fifty years since we last visited Bangkok.  To say that it has changed would be a total understatement.  Neither of us remembers a lot, but perhaps we visited a small, charming far east city.  We both remember visiting the Buddhist temple complexes which probably haven’t changed a great deal since they are protected sanctuaries.  Each temple is a riot of color, gold leaf, Meissen porcelain-like flower sculptures, mirrored glass tiles and tourists, lots of tourists.  As far as photography goes, one usually likes to find a focal point or subject in an image.  When there is so much to see in such a small area, it’s easy to be so overwhelmed with color, shape and texture that no subject is easily found. We viewed the famous Buddha statues—the Emerald Buddha (which is actually made of jade), the Reclining Buddha, and the Solid Gold Buddha.
As we drove through the city, it was interesting to witness its growth.  Wide green avenues led into narrow streets threaded with many black spaghetti-like electrical wires brought together in bundles at their transformers.  Shops after shops line sidewalks.  Layered in front of the shops are street vendors selling everything from souvenir Buddhas to grilled bananas.

Urban sprawl is rife here.  One can drive for an hour and still be in the city.  Traffic jams are everywhere.  As you look into a side street, you can see a very narrow passage with old buildings huddling on each side.  In the middle of such a neighborhood is a brand new high-rise condominium or office building.

Bridge over the River Kwai, World War II

A day trip to the bridge over the River Kwai was very informative and quite touching.  We started the tour at the War Museum in Kanchanaburi.  The Japanese used mostly British, Australian and Dutch POWs during the war to construct a railroad to transport supplies from Thailand to Burma (Myanmar). In the course of construction, the bridge over the river Kwai came into being.  As in Vietnam, conditions for the POWs used as slave labor were horrendous.  Many died from tropical diseases and starvation.  The terrain was rocky and mountainous.  The photos of the rescued Allies resembled concentration camp survivors.



BaiPai Thai Cooking School

On a lighter note, our last day in Bangkok, we took a Thai cooking class.  The instructors made it fun; so did the other participants, 2 Brits and 2 young Korean students.  We learned how to make coconut cream and coconut milk from scratch, though I think I’ll continue to use the canned variety.  Chicken satay, grilled prawn salad, and massaman curry were also on the menu.


Other Thoughts 

From a tourist perspective, we can certainly attest to the fact that Bangkok and Thailand have entered the 21st century international world arena.  The infrastructure is modern and becoming more efficient as time goes by.  As always, population growth seems to precede some of these advancements. The current population of Bangkok is 10 million.  China is investing heavily in all of Southeast Asia, including Thailand.  Our tour guide mentioned that she doesn’t see many Americans anymore.  Chinese tourists are first (in numbers), followed by Japanese and then Koreans.


CAMBODIA

Siem Reap — Happy Faces and Ancient Places

A couple of days before our flight to Cambodia, we received an email from the manager saying the hotel we booked, (Le Meridien), had been overbooked, so he made us a reservation at the Marriott Courtyard.  When we arrived, we discovered that the Courtyard was brand new, having just opened 3 weeks prior.  It was a lovely hotel, but the thing that set it apart was service such as we had never experienced before.  Every time we drove up to the door, employees came running after us with fresh cool cloths, offering to carry backpacks and anything else needed.  First, last and always were smiling faces.  They immediately learned our names and used them throughout our stay.  Hospitality was primary!

There were a couple of surprising observations even as we left the airport.  First, nearly every vehicle we saw at the airport and everywhere, for that matter, was a newer model Lexus.  No 3rd world country here!  Also, the avenue leading into town is filled with luxury hotels.  Tourism is king in this city, and the tourists are treated royally.  That’s not to say that everyone is rich.  Far from it—there are still many people leading hard scrabble lives in shacks and lean-tos.  Prosperity hasn’t trickled down too far.

We spent 2 days touring the ancient Khmer temple complexes with names that are familiar to most of us:  Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, etc.  The tremendous scope of the detail in these temples is mind-boggling.  And it was all constructed and carved about 1,000 years ago.  Now, thanks to ground penetrating radar, many more discoveries are being made and archeology will continue to uncover more secrets in the future.  Instead of more descriptive words, photos tell the story better.





On our last day, we went on an excursion to Tonle Sap Lake, its floating village, and the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary.  The lake is seasonal, joined to the Tonle Sap River, which in turn is joined to the Mekong River.  There are entire floating villages along the lake with homes, schools, shops and other necessities of life.  Most people fish for a living.  Over half the fish consumed in Cambodia come from this lake.





Before leaving Cambodia, I asked our guide if the people in his country are as happy as their smiles would have us believe.  He answered that yes, they were.  We should probably take a lesson from their chapter.  In the 1970’s, the murderous leader, Pol Pot, subjected the country to unspeakable horrors, murdering about 2 million Cambodians and forcing many out of their homes and into labor camps where they toiled in rice paddies and were tortured and starved.  A country that can overcome such a nightmare in a mere 40 years and progress to the point where they are happy, educated and productive deserves respect for the ability of the human spirit to regenerate.

Well, folks, that's all for now.  We'll be in touch soon with our next adventures in this region of the world.  In the meantime, it's still snowing in Maine, and the current temperature is in the teens.  Here, it's toasty in the 80's.