Winter Escape (Chapter 3)

Winter Escape (Chapter 3)

 

Indonesia & Malaysia

Black and white, night and day, apples and oranges—that’s how different our impressions are of these two countries.  Traveling through the towns, cities and countryside of Indonesia reveals a landscape littered with trash, trash and more trash with no respect for the environment whatsoever.  Even the waterways, rivers, bays and ocean are awash in trash.  It seems that people are the only organisms possibly thriving in this country, as millions of them inhabit the cities, and large families of many children still are the norm.  

The highlight of our visit to Indonesia was a sojourn into the rainforest to Genung Leuser National Park, on the island of Sumatra to see orangutans in their natural habitat.  Sumatra was once the home of a large number of orangutans as well as the Sumatran tiger, rhinoceros and numerous other birds and animals.  They’ve largely been displaced by the planting of huge plantations of palm oil.  Forests have been clear cut, the animals killed or fled, and now palm oil rules the day.  It is a cheap cash crop used widely today in the world, especially in processed foods. 

So, about the orangutans.  We left the ship at 4:00AM for a 3-4 hour drive to the National Park, even though it was only about 40 miles from the ship’s docked location.  Maybe you can get a sense of the road conditions from that tidbit of information.  After breakfast at a local hotel, we set out on a hike to see and photograph the primates.  After a steep uphill climb and about 2 kilometers of walking in the forest, we came upon a mother and baby.  Baby orangutans stay with their mothers for about 7 years, after which time they strike out on their own.  This time period is the longest that any animal stays with its mother, except for humans.  As a result, during a female adult’s lifespan of about 35 years, she only has about 3 babies.  After watching this family, we moved on and found another mother and baby.  While in the park, we were able to see a couple of beautiful leaf monkeys and some long-tailed macaques.



Long-Tailed Macaque 

Thomas Leaf Monkey

 

Orangutan

Orangutan Young



Orangutan

As much as we enjoyed seeing these animals in the wild, it was a bit disturbing to notice that there was seemingly no limit on the number of human visitors to the park, and the guides were feeding the orangutans bananas and carrots to encourage them to get closer to people.  This experience was so different from our mountain gorilla trek in Africa where everything was highly regulated for the benefit of the gorillas.  Although these orangutans are safely installed in a national park, I feel that they are still being exploited.  The question becomes, “does the exploitation aspect outweigh the benefit of a learning opportunity for people to see and become aware of these gentle animals along with the opportunity to protect and preserve them and their habitats?” Or is it the opposite?  There’s not an easy answer.

After our brief experience in Indonesia, we set off east across the straits of Malacca for some ports of call in Malaysia.  As we drove from the port of Klang to the city of Kuala Lumpur, the first thing we noticed was that the trash was gone, the roads were good, and the country appeared to be productive and thriving with many international companies and businesses based here.  The standard of living was much higher in Malaysia than in Indonesia.  Although both countries have natural resources, the way they are handled makes the difference.  In Malaysia, health care and education are available and good.  Not so in Indonesia.  And,   Malaysians take pride in being a culturally diverse country with tolerance for all.  (At least, that’s what we were told.)

Kuala Lumpur is a very modern city that could almost be anywhere, world.  A visit to the Sky Tower revealed a city that’s expanding and growing; construction was going on almost everywhere there was an empty block.  The Petronas Towers are 1,483 ft. high.  Until 2004, they were the tallest towers in the world.  “Petronas” is the name of the national oil company of Malaysia, and they are the owners of these towers.  Quite impressive to see!



KL Tower



Partial View of Kuala Lumpur from KL Tower



Petronas Towers

 

We finished our time in Malaysia with a day at a beach on Sibu Island.  It was a nice white sandy beach with warm sea water for swimming.  We had been told there would be snorkeling opportunities, but they didn’t materialize until late in our day when we were ready to return to the ship. 

Now, just a few words about this ship voyage.  We always book small expedition ships for a reason.  First, the number of passengers is always less than 100.  Second, the ships are small enough to reach ports that have something unusual or interesting to see and do such as rainforest walks, trips through the mangroves to see birds and monkeys or visits to local tribal areas.  Because of the hassles the ship’s staff has encountered with new(?) government regulations in Southeast Asian countries, our itinerary has been altered considerably, and many of the ports of call are places that ordinary large ships can visit.  A hue and cry arose from all of the passengers on the day we visited Kuala Lumpur.  Enough was enough; we hadn’t signed up to visit hot, humid cities, which happened for 3 days in a row.  As a result, we are all now getting half of our cruise fare refunded as well as a hefty discount on a future expedition.  Question is—how many will actually book a future cruise?

So, now we’ll see how things go as we ply the waters going to Cambodia and Vietnam.

2018 Winter Escape (Chapter 2)

2018 Winter Escape

(Chapter 2)

Thailand Revisited

A Respite in the Thai Countryside

A short plane ride and we were back in Thailand, southern Thailand this time.  We planned a stay at a country lodge near Sri Phang Nga National Park so that we could explore the park’s wildlife with a guide.  This area is just to the north of touristy Phuket with its beautiful beaches and islands.  It sits on the long peninsula leading south from Thailand proper.  Many might remember the horrific tsunami of 2004, which devastated so much of the coastline here.  When we asked our guide about the tsunami’s effects in this area, he told us that damage was minimal here.  Most of this coastline is covered in mangroves, which absorbed the waves and shockwaves from the event.  It wasn’t until then that people realized the value of the mangroves. Up to that time, they had been cutting them down and making charcoal from them.  It is still unknown if they realize the true value of the mangroves as fish nurseries, too, which accounts for most of the industry here. 

Upon arriving at the lodge, we expected the usual smiling welcome with a refreshing cool, scented towel and welcome drink.  Well, that didn’t happen!  We couldn’t even find anyone at the reception to check us in after our 2 ½ hour drive from the airport.  Eventually, someone did come, and we were shown to our room.  Of course, these lodgings do vary in quality, but we were disappointed to find a small, mildew-smelling cave-like room and a bathroom that was so dark we could have actually been in a cave.  As usual, we decided to make the most of the situation, since it seemed to be the only accommodation in the area; at least it was air conditioned. 

Panoramic View of Lodge

The grounds were quite picturesque, with a pretty pond and an attractive swimming pool.  We met our guide the next morning and set up a trip to the park.  It was the first time we had ever engaged a bird-watching trip where the guide showed up sans binoculars and viewing scope.  Did he have x-ray eyes?  Well, it turned out he needed neither of these items, because there were almost no birds to see.  Disappointing?  Yes, for sure.  In addition, our hike in the rainforest consisted of fording a river 4 times (in each direction), with various levels of water running swiftly over slippery rocks and boulders.  The only positive note was seeing and hearing gibbons.  They are difficult to see, but oh so easy to hear.  Their melodious call was worth the time we spent listening.  The sound would start at a lower pitch range and each successive call would rise in pitch until it sounded like a soprano was exercising her voice.  I had heard the sound before on documentaries, but hearing the real thing was exciting.

Erythrina crista-galli, or cockspur coral tree

Common Archduke

Chestnut-bellied malkoha

After the park trip, we were taken on a boat ride to the mangroves.  Again, mostly no birds, but the guide had an ulterior motive.  We were to have lunch at a mud crab farm.  It was actually interesting to see the workings of this floating farm on bamboo plank rafts.  The cook had only one wok but prepared the crab in different ways.  When we thought we were finished eating, the main course arrived, which was a whole cooked fish, steamed rice and wok fried greens.  We had our share of local color at that lunch, sitting on low cushions looking out at the muddy water in the sultry heat and listening to the constant hum of flies begging to share our meal.  In the sun, our hiking boots and socks spent time drying out from their river excursion of the morning.

Chef on the Floating Crab Farm

I had a feeling when planning this part of the trip that Thailand, and most of Southeast Asia, weren’t really in tune with the larger part of the world that’s offering ecotourism and nature tours.  Information about birds and wildlife wasn’t easy to come by, and this experience was about as expected.  So, we chalked it up as a learning experience and were ready to move on to the next adventure.

A Little Luxury

After our rustic countryside stay, we transferred to the greater Phuket area to enjoy a bit of luxury at the Westin Siray Bay Resort while waiting to join our cruise.  The hotel is spread out on a hillside overlooking Siray Bay.  It’s quietly away from the sprawling, noisy, crowded and traffic-choked city of Phuket. The rooms are comfortable and spacious with updated amenities.  There is a choice of restaurants and pools for dining and relaxing.  The staff is friendly and welcoming, as in the cool welcome towels and drinks we missed at the last stop!

Our visit coincides with Chinese New Year.  The hotel is brimming with Chinese tourists, lots and lots of them!  Although Thai people don’t celebrate the holiday, they’ve decorated the hotel lobby with red paper lanterns, and the city of Phuket is awash in them, all in honor of the many tourists from China. 

Yesterday, we went across the peninsula to Patong Beach, a crowded tourist mecca.  It was a shrine to the ‘Conspicuous Consumption’ that we are so familiar with in the western hemisphere--so many stores and so much stuff!  We wondered if the Chinese were buying their own made goods and taking them back to China with them?  Across the street from the megamall was a local market with fresh produce, seafood and meat.  A walk through the aisles with the seafood and meat would have been a really easy way to convert one to vegetarianism forever.  I don’t know what sea creatures can feel or experience, but watching the live ones struggling to escape the confines of their crowded tanks was heart wrenching.

Entrance to Banzaan Market

Fresh Fruits and Veggies

Curries

Fresh Fowl

Lobsters

Frogs!

Eggplant

Silversea Silver Discoverer

Saving the Best for Last

On the appointed day, we boarded the Silver Discoverer, a small expedition ship designed to travel into remote areas for exploration.  The first thing we discovered after checking into our cabin was a letter explaining that some of the itinerary had to be changed in order to accommodate changing laws in the countries we were visiting.  Thailand had just enacted a law prohibiting the use of zodiacs (the inflatables that are used to ferry passengers from the ship to many of the places we would be exploring.)  Cambodia had done the same on a more limited basis.  And Vietnam was now forbidding ocean vehicles from sailing up the Mekong River.  To the credit of the ships’ officials, these challenges were met and have been accommodated to the satisfaction of everyone.

Our first day out, we took speed boats into Phang Nga Bay, a beautiful area with many limestone islands rising vertically out of the water and covered in lush greenery.  One of them is called James Bond Island, owing to the 1974 movie, “Man with the Golden Gun” being filmed there.  The scenery was breathtaking and everyone enjoyed the day.

Limestone Karst Island, Phang Nga Bay

Sea Cave, Phang Nga Bay

James Bond Island

James Bond Island

We now say ‘adios’ to Thailand and prepare for visits to Indonesia and Malaysia.  The Thai people were without exception gracious and polite to us.  And Thai food has been quite good, much like Thai restaurants in the states.  And as always, the tropical fruits, ripened on the plants and trees, has been delicious and sweet.

Chapter 1

2018 Winter Escape

After winterizing the house, we departed snow packed -9°F Maine and flew to Washington State to spend a week with our grandchildren, Stone and Clare, and their parents, of course.  They were such fun to be with, but we felt guilty leaving them.  At ages 4 and 2, it’s difficult for them to understand our departure.

We boarded an EVA 777 aircraft (Taiwanese Airline) for a midnight departure on the first leg to Taipei, where we changed planes to Thai Air and on to our first destination, Bangkok.  We had never flown on EVA.  It was the cleanest, nicest aircraft we had probably ever flown.  The staff was very pleasant and extremely helpful.  Since we were in first class with fully reclining seats, we enjoyed a restful night’s sleep.

THAILAND

Bangkok—City of Sensory Overload

It had been about fifty years since we last visited Bangkok.  To say that it has changed would be a total understatement.  Neither of us remembers a lot, but perhaps we visited a small, charming far east city.  We both remember visiting the Buddhist temple complexes which probably haven’t changed a great deal since they are protected sanctuaries.  Each temple is a riot of color, gold leaf, Meissen porcelain-like flower sculptures, mirrored glass tiles and tourists, lots of tourists.  As far as photography goes, one usually likes to find a focal point or subject in an image.  When there is so much to see in such a small area, it’s easy to be so overwhelmed with color, shape and texture that no subject is easily found. We viewed the famous Buddha statues—the Emerald Buddha (which is actually made of jade), the Reclining Buddha, and the Solid Gold Buddha.

As we drove through the city, it was interesting to witness its growth.  Wide green avenues led into narrow streets threaded with many black spaghetti-like electrical wires brought together in bundles at their transformers.  Shops after shops line sidewalks.  Layered in front of the shops are street vendors selling everything from souvenir Buddhas to grilled bananas.

Urban sprawl is rife here.  One can drive for an hour and still be in the city.  Traffic jams are everywhere.  As you look into a side street, you can see a very narrow passage with old buildings huddling on each side.  In the middle of such a neighborhood is a brand new high-rise condominium or office building.

Bridge over the River Kwai, World War II

A day trip to the bridge over the River Kwai was very informative and quite touching.  We started the tour at the War Museum in Kanchanaburi.  The Japanese used mostly British, Australian and Dutch POWs during the war to construct a railroad to transport supplies from Thailand to Burma (Myanmar). In the course of construction, the bridge over the river Kwai came into being.  As in Vietnam, conditions for the POWs used as slave labor were horrendous.  Many died from tropical diseases and starvation.  The terrain was rocky and mountainous.  The photos of the rescued Allies resembled concentration camp survivors.

BaiPai Thai Cooking School

On a lighter note, our last day in Bangkok, we took a Thai cooking class.  The instructors made it fun; so did the other participants, 2 Brits and 2 young Korean students.  We learned how to make coconut cream and coconut milk from scratch, though I think I’ll continue to use the canned variety.  Chicken satay, grilled prawn salad, and massaman curry were also on the menu.

Other Thoughts 

From a tourist perspective, we can certainly attest to the fact that Bangkok and Thailand have entered the 21^st century international world arena.  The infrastructure is modern and becoming more efficient as time goes by.  As always, population growth seems to precede some of these advancements. The current population of Bangkok is 10 million.  China is investing heavily in all of Southeast Asia, including Thailand.  Our tour guide mentioned that she doesn’t see many Americans anymore.  Chinese tourists are first (in numbers), followed by Japanese and then Koreans.

CAMBODIA

Siem Reap — Happy Faces and Ancient Places

A couple of days before our flight to Cambodia, we received an email from the manager saying the hotel we booked, (Le Meridien), had been overbooked, so he made us a reservation at the Marriott Courtyard.  When we arrived, we discovered that the Courtyard was brand new, having just opened 3 weeks prior.  It was a lovely hotel, but the thing that set it apart was service such as we had never experienced before.  Every time we drove up to the door, employees came running after us with fresh cool cloths, offering to carry backpacks and anything else needed.  First, last and always were smiling faces.  They immediately learned our names and used them throughout our stay.  Hospitality was primary!

There were a couple of surprising observations even as we left the airport.  First, nearly every vehicle we saw at the airport and everywhere, for that matter, was a newer model Lexus.  No 3^rd world country here!  Also, the avenue leading into town is filled with luxury hotels.  Tourism is king in this city, and the tourists are treated royally.  That’s not to say that everyone is rich.  Far from it—there are still many people leading hard scrabble lives in shacks and lean-tos.  Prosperity hasn’t trickled down too far.

We spent 2 days touring the ancient Khmer temple complexes with names that are familiar to most of us:  Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, etc.  The tremendous scope of the detail in these temples is mind-boggling.  And it was all constructed and carved about 1,000 years ago.  Now, thanks to ground penetrating radar, many more discoveries are being made and archeology will continue to uncover more secrets in the future.  Instead of more descriptive words, photos tell the story better.

On our last day, we went on an excursion to Tonle Sap Lake, its floating village, and the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary.  The lake is seasonal, joined to the Tonle Sap River, which in turn is joined to the Mekong River.  There are entire floating villages along the lake with homes, schools, shops and other necessities of life.  Most people fish for a living.  Over half the fish consumed in Cambodia come from this lake.

Before leaving Cambodia, I asked our guide if the people in his country are as happy as their smiles would have us believe.  He answered that yes, they were.  We should probably take a lesson from their chapter.  In the 1970’s, the murderous leader, Pol Pot, subjected the country to unspeakable horrors, murdering about 2 million Cambodians and forcing many out of their homes and into labor camps where they toiled in rice paddies and were tortured and starved.  A country that can overcome such a nightmare in a mere 40 years and progress to the point where they are happy, educated and productive deserves respect for the ability of the human spirit to regenerate.

Well, folks, that's all for now.  We'll be in touch soon with our next adventures in this region of the world.  In the meantime, it's still snowing in Maine, and the current temperature is in the teens.  Here, it's toasty in the 80's.