Nepal
16-23 September
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For anyone, who has actually had the fortitude to read our blogs, we can hope to give you a break on this one, since we are only spending a week in Nepal. No promises, though.
Nepal is a small country with 2 mega-countries bordering it. China is Nepal’s northern neighbor; India is Nepal’s southern neighbor. It boasts 8 of the 10 tallest mountains in the world, including the tallest—Mt. Everest. The country is rich in natural beauty, but very poor by economic standards. The Himalayas, watching over this small country, are surprisingly invisible during the monsoon season when clouds blanket them a good deal of the time. The people reflect their geographic heritage. Some look distinctly Chinese; others look more like their Indian neighbors, and some are a blend of both. The same is true of religion, which is a blend of Hindu and Buddhism. The temples also architecturally reflect Chinese and Indian influences. And most restaurants offer a selection of Chinese and Indian dishes.
16-17 September
We arrived in Kathmandu in the afternoon, were collected by a tour agent and driver, and delivered to our hotel, the Hyatt. It was a really nice hotel and a good way to spend our first night. The next day, we toured two ancient cities on the outskirts of Kathmandu. One was Patan and the other was Bhaktapur. Both featured Hindu temples from the 16th century and very old homes with carved wood windows and decoration. Most people here are Hindu (about 80%), but Buddhists account for about 16% or so of population; their homes are readily identifiable by the prayer flags flying in the breeze.
We arrived in Kathmandu in the afternoon, were collected by a tour agent and driver, and delivered to our hotel, the Hyatt. It was a really nice hotel and a good way to spend our first night. The next day, we toured two ancient cities on the outskirts of Kathmandu. One was Patan and the other was Bhaktapur. Both featured Hindu temples from the 16th century and very old homes with carved wood windows and decoration. Most people here are Hindu (about 80%), but Buddhists account for about 16% or so of population; their homes are readily identifiable by the prayer flags flying in the breeze.
After our 2 city tours, we drove up into the mountains to a town called Nagarkot, famous for its views of the Himalayas and Mt. Everest on a clear day. It was a beautiful drive. As we climbed higher and higher, views of the emerald green Kathmandu valley were arrayed before us. Rice terraces and forests of pine and bamboo comprised the principle scenes. We knew that the chances of seeing the mountains were slim due to this time of year being the end of the monsoon. So, the sunset was a nonevent. We were told when we checked in at the hotel that we would get a 5:00AM wake-up call if the mountains were visible at first light in the morning. Dave also set his alarm clock for 5:00AM. So, next morning, we did get a wake-up call. We went to our balcony and could see a silhouette of some mountains, but nothing spectacular. So Renee went back to bed, and Dave stayed up to keep monitoring the situation.
About 6:30, as Renee was brushing her teeth, Dave came running into the bathroom and told her to stop right away and go outside. There they were--the Himalayas and Mt. Everest glowing in the sunlight above the clouds and fog that had settled below. The scene didn’t last long; the clouds reblanketed the mountains within a minute or two.
18 September
We met our driver after breakfast in order to drive to Chitwan National Park. It was the only national park within a reasonable day’s drive that was actually open during the monsoon in either India or Nepal. We thought it would be a good idea to see what a safari had to offer in this part of the world. We set off at 8:00AM and drove some of the worst roads that we have encountered on the entire trip. And that’s saying a lot! By the time we arrived at 3:00PM, we felt like we had been beaten up. The scenery along the way was stunning, though. We basically followed a rushing river most of the way. Verdant mountains rose on both sides of the road and river, and waterfalls appeared from time to time.
We met our driver after breakfast in order to drive to Chitwan National Park. It was the only national park within a reasonable day’s drive that was actually open during the monsoon in either India or Nepal. We thought it would be a good idea to see what a safari had to offer in this part of the world. We set off at 8:00AM and drove some of the worst roads that we have encountered on the entire trip. And that’s saying a lot! By the time we arrived at 3:00PM, we felt like we had been beaten up. The scenery along the way was stunning, though. We basically followed a rushing river most of the way. Verdant mountains rose on both sides of the road and river, and waterfalls appeared from time to time.
When we finally arrived at the lodge entrance, there was no record of our reservation. So, we’re not sure who dropped the ball on this one, but eventually, it was sorted out and the reservation honored. We waited at the entrance to be collected. It took over 30 minutes for a huge army truck to come lumbering out of the park. Our luggage was put on board and we sat on benches on the sides of the truck in the back. The drive was a muddy, bumpy one. Then, we forded a river in the truck (not too deep), but soon came to another river that had a wild, swift current. There was a dugout canoe waiting there to load us and our bags on board. We started out across the river, but it soon became apparent that the river’s current was too strong for the little dugout and the 2 men who would be paddling it. So they pulled up to a sand bar in the middle of the river and unloaded everything. We saw an elephant in the distance with a mahoot (driver) coming toward us. We and the bags were reloaded onto the elephant, and the journey was completed to the lodge! Our question of the day was how on earth we were going to climb up onto the saddle box of this massive elephant. Well, first she lay down, then we climbed on her heel, then a loop was made in her tail for the next step, and then up to her back for the next step. Finally, we were up there. Of course, Renee’s concern for animal welfare was aroused at the way we had to climb on the poor creature and by the way the driver treated the elephant to get her to move the way he wanted. Apparently, the safari would be just getting to the lodge.
The accommodation consisted of a wooden bungalow with a bathroom—running water but no electricity. There were solar panels for the water heater, but when the sun doesn’t shine, hot water doesn’t follow. We were given kerosene lanterns for light at night, and a generator ran a ceiling fan for a couple of hours each day. Initially, when we got into the dugout, a chicken was put on board with us. When we transferred to the elephant, the chicken didn’t come with us. It stayed in the dugout to make its way with the boat and crew. Guess what was on the menu for dinner? Chicken! Well, it was fresh, anyway.
As Renee was writing the blog, we felt the bungalow shaking pretty significantly for about 30 seconds. Renee believed we had an earthquake. Dave thought it was an elephant. We had just showered and quickly dressed in case we had to quickly go out of the room. The bungalow is elevated on bamboo stilts, not the best earthquake proof construction. Fortunately, there was no more shaking, but we found out at dinner that it was an earthquake, 6.7 magnitude centered in Sikkim, India. Sikkim is in northern India; we’re in southern Nepal, so probably not too far away. (Lack of internet prevents us from checking it out.)
19 September
It rained heavily all night, so Renee decided to forego the elephant safari this morning. Dave went and saw some deer and a few birds. Later, after breakfast, we attended an elephant briefing. We went to an area where the domesticated elephants are kept when not working. The process of training elephants and general facts about them were explained to us. It was informative and interesting. At least, they seemed to care about the welfare of the animals. Later in the afternoon, we went on a jeep safari in the forest. We really didn’t see anything. The grass and greenery was so lush, tall and thick, that even if there were animals there, they wouldn’t have been visible. That’s the downside of a visit at the end of the rainy season when everything seems to have grown as if on steroids.
It rained heavily all night, so Renee decided to forego the elephant safari this morning. Dave went and saw some deer and a few birds. Later, after breakfast, we attended an elephant briefing. We went to an area where the domesticated elephants are kept when not working. The process of training elephants and general facts about them were explained to us. It was informative and interesting. At least, they seemed to care about the welfare of the animals. Later in the afternoon, we went on a jeep safari in the forest. We really didn’t see anything. The grass and greenery was so lush, tall and thick, that even if there were animals there, they wouldn’t have been visible. That’s the downside of a visit at the end of the rainy season when everything seems to have grown as if on steroids.
Safari
It’s probably not fair to compare a safari here with the ones we’ve been on in Africa. BUT, the safari camps here are very basic and rustic. They’re not that well maintained, either. The staff sits around a table all day rolling dice and playing games instead of sprucing up the landscaping or repairing and maintaining the rooms and buildings.
It’s probably not fair to compare a safari here with the ones we’ve been on in Africa. BUT, the safari camps here are very basic and rustic. They’re not that well maintained, either. The staff sits around a table all day rolling dice and playing games instead of sprucing up the landscaping or repairing and maintaining the rooms and buildings.
Since the electricity is on only from 6:00PM or later until about 9:30PM, it’s impossible to get a cold drink. When we went on the jeep safari, the jeep was an old battered vehicle, instead of the comfortable, clean ones we’re used to in Africa. A wild boar was spotted, but the driver had gone a bit too far to see it through the bushes, so we asked if he could back up a bit. Reverse didn’t work! As we were having lunch (chicken), we saw another chicken being brought to the kitchen—tonight’s dinner, no doubt. There was no juice at breakfast, and on and on. Well, at least we know now what a safari is like in Nepal! Tomorrow, we leave for another city, Pokhara.
20 September
“And they say we’ll have some fun if it stops raining…”
Do you remember the song about the letter that the kid sent home from summer camp? We have our own version:
20 September
“And they say we’ll have some fun if it stops raining…”
Do you remember the song about the letter that the kid sent home from summer camp? We have our own version:
Hello Jared, Hello Daughta
Here we are at Nepal’s Pokhara.
The lodge is very entertaining,
And they say we’ll have some fun if it stops raining.
Technically, the monsoon should be over. But…it’s not and it seems to be getting wetter. This morning, we were told that the army truck that we rode part of the way to the lodge at Chitwan had broken down, and the boat was not an option due to the swift current and high water level of the rivers (yes, plural). The only option available to get out of the camp, and we were ready for that, was to go by elephant all the way to the gate, a trip of about an hour and a half. So, we got in the saddle box along with all of our luggage and set off. Wow, we have a new respect and admiration for what an elephant can accomplish! She took us and the bags across 4 rivers in the pouring rain, through the jungle, and delivered us at the site of the driver and van. The current in the rivers was roaring, and the river was deep, but she managed to ford all of them with no problems. We were thoroughly soaked despite an umbrella, ponchos and tarps for the bags. We were glad to get into the van. It was cloudy during the drive to Pokhara, and about an hour away from this destination, it started to rain again.
Here we are at Nepal’s Pokhara.
The lodge is very entertaining,
And they say we’ll have some fun if it stops raining.
Technically, the monsoon should be over. But…it’s not and it seems to be getting wetter. This morning, we were told that the army truck that we rode part of the way to the lodge at Chitwan had broken down, and the boat was not an option due to the swift current and high water level of the rivers (yes, plural). The only option available to get out of the camp, and we were ready for that, was to go by elephant all the way to the gate, a trip of about an hour and a half. So, we got in the saddle box along with all of our luggage and set off. Wow, we have a new respect and admiration for what an elephant can accomplish! She took us and the bags across 4 rivers in the pouring rain, through the jungle, and delivered us at the site of the driver and van. The current in the rivers was roaring, and the river was deep, but she managed to ford all of them with no problems. We were thoroughly soaked despite an umbrella, ponchos and tarps for the bags. We were glad to get into the van. It was cloudy during the drive to Pokhara, and about an hour away from this destination, it started to rain again.
We arrived in a heavy rain to find that the new lodge was on an island in the middle of the lake, and we had to cross in a boat. Now, this experience would have been really lovely on a nice day, but in the rain it wasn’t. At least the lodge/hotel is really a nice one, and we didn’t have to board an elephant to get there. We were supposed to go sightseeing for the rest of the afternoon, but we told the guide we had already been soaked and needed the afternoon to reorganize ourselves. We got laundry together to send out, washed underwear, took showers, dried our wet bags and shoes and now feel better. So, the sightseeing is on for tomorrow.
21 September
It stopped raining! So, we got in our day of sightseeing. There wasn’t really much that we could say was spectacular in this town. We visited a Hindu temple (again), went to a Gurka museum, a waterfall and took a boat ride on the lake. In the afternoon, we found a place to get Renee’s duffle bag repaired. The strap had been mishandled on one of the flights, so the stitching had come loose. There were several places with heavy duty sewing machines making seat covers and upholstery type things. So, we took it to one of them, and got it sewn up. The charge was about 75 cents. Such a deal we haven’t seen! Tomorrow, we’re making an early morning foray to try and see the sunrise on the Himalayas.
It stopped raining! So, we got in our day of sightseeing. There wasn’t really much that we could say was spectacular in this town. We visited a Hindu temple (again), went to a Gurka museum, a waterfall and took a boat ride on the lake. In the afternoon, we found a place to get Renee’s duffle bag repaired. The strap had been mishandled on one of the flights, so the stitching had come loose. There were several places with heavy duty sewing machines making seat covers and upholstery type things. So, we took it to one of them, and got it sewn up. The charge was about 75 cents. Such a deal we haven’t seen! Tomorrow, we’re making an early morning foray to try and see the sunrise on the Himalayas.
22 September
We awoke at 4:00AM and drove up a mountain to a vista, where if was a clear morning, we hoped to have a view of the snow covered Annapurna Range of the Himalayas. As daylight dawned, the rugged peaks started to emerge, and as sunrise approached, we started to glimpse patches of the mountains through broken clouds. One of the largest peaks, Mt. Fishtail, was starkly beautiful. The mountains played hide and seek in the clouds, one minute we had a view of one peak, the next minute it was covered with clouds, but another view opened up. There was quite a crowd of people at the panoramic viewpoint; all with cameras in hand. We watched for about an hour, and then returned to the hotel for breakfast and departure back to Kathmandu for an overnight and flight to Mumbai the next day.
We awoke at 4:00AM and drove up a mountain to a vista, where if was a clear morning, we hoped to have a view of the snow covered Annapurna Range of the Himalayas. As daylight dawned, the rugged peaks started to emerge, and as sunrise approached, we started to glimpse patches of the mountains through broken clouds. One of the largest peaks, Mt. Fishtail, was starkly beautiful. The mountains played hide and seek in the clouds, one minute we had a view of one peak, the next minute it was covered with clouds, but another view opened up. There was quite a crowd of people at the panoramic viewpoint; all with cameras in hand. We watched for about an hour, and then returned to the hotel for breakfast and departure back to Kathmandu for an overnight and flight to Mumbai the next day.
Wedding Couple, Pokhara
Pictures: Due to the additional number of pictures we wanted to post for Nepal, view them at our photo website below.
