Sunday, March 22, 2020

The Ascension Islands


Tristan da Cunha


 

The first hint that our trip was going south figuratively, while we were traveling north, literally, came when we were denied permission to land on this island nicknamed the “Remotest Island”.  There are about 300 residents here, most of British ancestry.  The island is a territory of Great Britain.  Although we had been isolated on the sea for a couple of weeks with just a short visit to the Falklands where there was no virus, we were told no landing was possible.  Later, we learned that most of the people on the island suffer from asthma and had been battling the flu.  With limited resources, ie. medical care, we understood their dilemma.

Tristan da Cuhna Village

So, we sailed around this beautiful green isle with its symmetrical volcano and enjoyed views of the rocky coastline.  One can only imagine the solitude of living so far from the rest of the world in a village overlooking the sea.  The independent nature of the citizens who are so self sufficient when supplies only arrive once every few months is also amazing to those of us who can normally shop for most of what we need or want on-line or at shops.  Because of the mountainous nature of the island, their few products include potatoes, and those of dairy and sheep.  They do fish for lobster or crayfish, their biggest export product, which is sent to South Africa.

Clouds over the Caldera
 

Nightingale Island, Gough Island and Inaccessible Island

Gough Island

These islands are part of the Ascension Island archipelago, too.  The raw beauty of these islands is difficult to describe.  First, picture crystal clear ocean water with visible kelp forests flourishing below. Next, imagine seals—Antarctic fur seals to be exact—playing and darting through these waters following the rubber dinghies.  Next, we’ll follow those seals to their haul-outs of massive sea caves where their barking fills the air and reverberates off the cave walls.  Next, picture the rocks, boulders and hills where the seals bask in the sun.  Last, imagine nurseries of baby seals romping around in protected rock pools playing with each other and waiting for their mothers to return from the sea with dinner.

Kelp and Clear Blue Water
 
 
Baby Seals
 

But let’s not forget the islands themselves.  For this view, remember “Jurassic Park”.  Volcanic islands with beautiful waterfalls and valleys that are green and verdant play among the mountains and rocky landscape.  Most of us had never quite seen anything like it.  And all of this magic unfolded under a sunny sky and mild temperatures.

 
 

Now, it’s time for the birds and another species of penguin that lives here.  It’s the Northern Rockhopper, a crested penguin that is quite small but has long yellow eyelashes and a red beak.  They exist in small colonies on the slopes and rocks and are called rockhoppers for good reason.  They congregate in little groups and hop their way up the rocks.  There they raise their young and rest when not fishing.

Northern Rockhopper Penguins
Tristan Albatross
 
Antarctic Tern

 

In the end, we were really thrilled to visit a place relatively untouched by humans where the natural world is thriving.  As a side note, St. Helena is also in the Ascensions.  It is the island where Napoleon was exiled.  It is even more remote than the islands we visited in this part of the archipelago.

The last chapter of this journey will be published later when we can give an accurate account of events that unfolded on our way to Cape Town and our experiences there.