Tristan da Cunha
The first hint that our trip was going south figuratively, while
we were traveling north, literally, came when we were denied permission to land
on this island nicknamed the “Remotest Island”.
There are about 300 residents here, most of British ancestry. The island is a territory of Great
Britain. Although we had been isolated
on the sea for a couple of weeks with just a short visit to the Falklands where
there was no virus, we were told no landing was possible. Later, we learned that most of the people on
the island suffer from asthma and had been battling the flu. With limited resources, ie. medical care, we
understood their dilemma.
Tristan da Cuhna Village
So, we sailed around this beautiful green isle with its
symmetrical volcano and enjoyed views of the rocky coastline. One can only imagine the solitude of living
so far from the rest of the world in a village overlooking the sea. The independent nature of the citizens who
are so self sufficient when supplies only arrive once every few months is also
amazing to those of us who can normally shop for most of what we need or want
on-line or at shops. Because of the
mountainous nature of the island, their few products include potatoes, and
those of dairy and sheep. They do fish
for lobster or crayfish, their biggest export product, which is sent to South
Africa.
Clouds over the Caldera |
Nightingale Island, Gough Island and Inaccessible Island
Gough Island |
These islands are part of the Ascension Island archipelago, too. The raw beauty of these islands is difficult to describe. First, picture crystal clear ocean water with visible kelp forests flourishing below. Next, imagine seals—Antarctic fur seals to be exact—playing and darting through these waters following the rubber dinghies. Next, we’ll follow those seals to their haul-outs of massive sea caves where their barking fills the air and reverberates off the cave walls. Next, picture the rocks, boulders and hills where the seals bask in the sun. Last, imagine nurseries of baby seals romping around in protected rock pools playing with each other and waiting for their mothers to return from the sea with dinner.
Kelp and Clear Blue Water |
Baby Seals |
But let’s not forget the islands themselves. For this view, remember “Jurassic Park”. Volcanic islands with beautiful waterfalls and valleys that are green and verdant play among the mountains and rocky landscape. Most of us had never quite seen anything like it. And all of this magic unfolded under a sunny sky and mild temperatures.
Now, it’s time for the birds and another species of penguin that lives here. It’s the Northern Rockhopper, a crested penguin that is quite small but has long yellow eyelashes and a red beak. They exist in small colonies on the slopes and rocks and are called rockhoppers for good reason. They congregate in little groups and hop their way up the rocks. There they raise their young and rest when not fishing.
Northern Rockhopper Penguins |
Tristan Albatross |
Antarctic Tern |